Germany is the home of Riesling. And in Germany it expresses itself quite differently to anywhere else on the planet. Ethereal, bewitching, haunting. Sometimes delicate, sometimes bold and powerful, always fascinating and usually with a gravity-defying lightness of touch.
Revel in Riesling. Marvel at its minerality. Be dazzled by its diversity. Delicate and powerful. Refined and rugged. Complex yet approachable. The glories of German Riesling!
A note about German wine labelling
A classical German label will usually show the grower, the vintage and the bit that some find intimidating: Name of the village, name of the vineyard, the grape, the Pradikat level (Kabinett/Spatlese/Auslese etc) and whether it is vinified dry or fruity. Trocken means dry.
(Alcohol levels are also a clue – the lower the number, the more likely it is to be a sweet/fruity wine)
Some of the key Regions:
MOSEL
Minerality and piercing purity.
We seem to spend more and more of our time on the Mosel. Not so strange. Known for its lightness of touch, ethereal delicacy, raciness and terroir definition.
RHEINGAU
Classical and perfumed.
Long-lived, fragrant Riesling. Often floral on the nose, with wonderful body, structure and precision.
The Rhine takes a sharp turn west at Mainz before turning north again at Rudesheim. The south-facing slope on the north bank between the two is the Rheingau, thick with castles, convents and vineyards. This is the classical home of Riesling with evocative names like Steinberg, Marcobrunn, Johannisberg, Hochheim. Hochheim was Queen Victoria’s favourite wine – and where the word “Hock” comes from, back when German wines were the most expensive in the world.
AHR
Autumnal, silky, sappy Pinot Noir.
Until you try Pinot Noir from Germany (known as Spatburgunder) your journey into the sensual, gently autumnal underbelly of the grape will be incomplete. The tiny Ahr valley lies in one of the northernmost winemaking regions of Germany, near Bonn. Romans planted vines here. Some say the sheltered valley has an almost Mediterranean micro-climate. We wouldn’t go quite that far, but there is little doubt that it is the best Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder) region in Germany, these wines displaying the haunting layers of flavour and texture that Pinot fanatics crave.
RHEINHESSEN
A region in flux
Rheinhessen, fertile and almost entirely flat, was the source of oceans of watery, sugary Liebfraumilch in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Today there is a real movement taking hold as a new generation of growers take over. They have seen what is possible in other parts of Germany and are determined to make great wine.
NAHE
Spicy and plump.
In many people’s view, the Nahe forms a golden triangle of quality with the Rhine and the Mosel and its Rieslings can age effortlessly for 30 years or more. Considered to be plump, rich and firm, often spicy from seams of iron-rich red slate. Some people say earthy. Classic, fine, age-worthy wines from historic sites.
MITTELRHEIN
Bracing acidity
From the picture postcard scenery of castles and towers and the legend of Lorelei, a siren who would lure boatmen to crash onto the rocks.
FRANKEN
Volcanic playground
Minerals and Bocksbeutel.
PFALZ
Fatter, rounder. Sometimes earthier.
Much closer to France in style. Some standout growers.
BADEN
Earthy and ripe. Some great Pinots.
WURTTEMBERG
A large region with a diversity of grapes and styles.
Intriguing, distinctive reds. Some spicy whites.
SACHSEN
Region to watch.
How can they make wine this far north? Klaus Zimmerling is the standout grower here.
We recommend you don’t get bogged down in this:
The Pradikat system – the ladder of quality
Determined entirely by the ripeness of the grapes at picking, measured in Oechsle.
QbA (Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) –
can be dry (trocken) or sweet or between (halb-trocken/feinherb)
QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat):
Kabinett – can be dry (trocken) or sweet or between (halb-trocken/feinherb)
Spatlese – can be dry (trocken) or sweet or between (halb-trocken/feinherb)
Auslese – usually sweet, but can be dry (trocken) or half-dry (halb-trocken/feinherb)
Beerenauslese
Trockenbeerenauslese
Eiswein
New Term: Highest level in dry wines, equivalent to Grand Cru: Grosses Gewachs (labelled Erstes Gewachs in the Rheingau). Always bears the name of the vineyard .
SWEET
Although we specialise in dry Riesling at The Winery, the charms of sweet Riesling are not wasted on us. The botrytis-laden late-picked sweet styles are like no other dessert wines. Even at the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese level of sweetness, they always have a refreshing lift of acidity which stop them from becoming cloying.