THE AHR VALLEY
The tiny Ahr valley lies in one of the northernmost winemaking regions
of Germany, between Cologne and Koblenz. Romans planted vines here. Some say
the sheltered valley has an almost Mediterranean micro-climate. We wouldn't go
quite that far, but there is little doubt that it is the best Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder)
region in Germany, these wines displaying the haunting layers of flavour,
ethereal smoky perfume and supple texture that Pinot fanatics crave. The valley
is also highly prized for white Asparagus, often served with boiled new
potatoes and hollandaise sauce and a side of smoked ham or pork fillet.
ADENEUER (Bad Neuenahr)
The Adeneuer family has been making wine for 500 years in Bad Neuenahr.
At just over half a hectare, Walporzheimer Garkammer is the smallest named
vineyard in Germany. Marc and Frank Adeneuer are the only owners. Their wines
are flying out. One of our customers, more used to drinking Rioja said of Cuvee
JJ ÒitÕs so good it makes you want to run away from it!Ó
KREUZBERG (Dernau)
"You can come whenever you like, apart from when Germany are
playing. Football is sacred!" Said Peter Kreuzberg when we visited during
the World Cup. We had tasted his Fruhburgunder in Steinheuer's restaurant on
our previous trip and resolved to visit him next time. The Kreuzberg style is
pure, perfumey Ahr, generally with a touch of spicy oak. The basic Spatburgunder
is compact and lean and the wines get lusher and oakier as you climb the
ladder.
NELLES (Heimersheim)
Our second arrival from the Ahr Valley, arguably the best region in
Germany for red wine. Nelles have made a big impact at the shop, from the name
of their top wine (B52!), to the striking bold labels emblazoned with the date
of the birth of the winery (1479). The vines, mainly Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir)
are cultivated on and around the Landskrone at the eastern end of the Ahr
Valley - steep slate soils warm up in the sun, storing heat which is released
during the night, making some of the wines carry quite a punch! The wines with
the "B" prefix are the powerhouse Barrique wines, while Thomas Nelles
also makes a beguiling and fragrant Fruhburgunder, known as Pinot Madelaine
elsewhere, a small-berried early-ripening cousin of Pinot Noir. The B52 is his
highly-prized top wine – nothing to do with bombers, he says. It was the
number of his best barrelÉ a stroke of marketing genius perhaps?! The name
certainly stays with you after the last sip, that's for sure. NellesÕ wines may
well convert you to German red wine instantly!
CHRISTOPHE RICHTER (Ahrweiler)
ORGANIC
We are always digging around,
looking for new or unknown growers in the tiny valley and got a tip-off from
Rudi Trossen's Danish importer Lasse Kruse about a Bio grower called Christophe
Richter. His house and winery are physically in the walls of the town. The
winery is a tiny garage. Considering he has barely 2 hectares of vines, it
amazes us that, apart from Spatburgunder, he also bottles Portuguieser, Regent
and Fruhburgunder. His style is delicate and very natural.