ALSACE
LAURENT
BARTH (Bennwihr)
Looking
like Damon Albarn has its perks - making great wine is not usually one of them.
20-something Laurent Barth has broad experience in wine-making, with stints in
Beaune and Dijon, as well as California, Lebanon and even India. Bio-dynamic.
HeÕs always looking for intensity and maximum ripeness. Testament to the
incredible intensity of his fruit that even his Edelzwicker ÒRacines MetissesÓ
is high quality! He uses the Vin de Presse (the Press wine after the pure free-run
juice runs off) of every varietal other than Gewurztraminer - therefore Muscat,
Sylvaner, Riesling and Pinot Gris. The Riesling Rebgarten is exhilarating and
expressive. Thanks to the succession of warm summers you couldnÕt describe the
Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer as super-dryÉÓthe fruit was so ripe, that if I
managed to ferment them out they would have ended up over 15%. So I left them
when I thought they were most harmoniousÓ. The Pinot Gris is fat. The Marckrain
is sensational. Gewurztraminer at the summit! We also found his Pinot Noir pure
and perfumey. Good Alsace Pinot Noir, that rarest of animals.
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white |
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RIESLING Rebgarten |
2005 |
12.99 |
MITTNACHT-KLACK
(Riquewihr)
Wines of exceptional
concentration from this small family domaine who have holdings in some of the
best vineyards around the picturesque town of Riquewihr, including the
precariously steep ÒSchoenenbourgÓ Grand Cru vineyard which runs right down to
the townÕs mediaeval walls and ÒRosackerÓ the legendary vineyard above the
neighbouring village of Hunawihr.
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white |
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RIESLING Muhlforst |
2002 |
12.99 |
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GEWURZTRAMINER Vendage Tardive |
2002 |
32.99 |