CHAMPAGNE
Champagne is vast. The northern sections fan out from Epernay. North
across the chalky Montagne de Reims towards Reims, west along the Marne Valley
towards Paris, then due southwards, the Chardonnay slopes called the Cote des
Blancs. Way further south, there is Montgueux, to the west of Troyes. Finally,
in the bottom right hand corner, there is the Aube (also known as the Cote des
Bars), our fertile hunting ground for smaller family Champagnes.
AMYOT (Aube/Loches-sur-Ource)
Many of you already know our classic House Champagne. Amyot is a small,
family producer based in the Aube, closer to Dijon than Reims. At a recent
blind Taste-off for an Asset Management company in the City, the Amyot NV came
out top. Year in, year out itÕs big, bold and incredible value!
LOUIS CASTERS (Vallee de
la Marne/Damery)
Champagne is often
made from red grapes which are pressed and separated from their skins to avoid
taking on the colour. Usually this would be Pinot Noir. Pinot Meunier is the
other red grape, considered in the past to be a ÒfillerÓ, several growers are
now making single bottlings which are becoming increasingly fashionable with
their bold, upfront flavours. Casters make a single varietal bottling called Cuvee Superieure. Their Cuvee Eugene is stunning. Barrel fermented
Pinot Noir blended with their best parcel of Chardonnay.
CHAMPAGNE CHRISTOPHE (Aube/Colombey-les-Sec)
A family Domaine for 3 generations in the tiny village of
Colombey-les-Sec, near the de Gaulle memorial at Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises.
Across the range they are beautifully made, with impressive complexity, bright
freshness and good depth of flavour. Tradition is 80% Pinot Noir with 20%
Chardonnay from a sunny slope overlooking the village.
DELAVENNE (Montagne de Reims/Bouzy)
This is the everyday story of a family Domaine in the village of Bouzy,
started 4 generations ago when everyone had livestock, vegetables, grainÉand
some rows of Grand Cru vines on chalky Bouzy soil. The current Madame,
Marie-Paule, was from the neighbouring village of Cramant, duly bringing a
parcel of Cramant vines to the marriage. Their Cuvee Tradition is 60% Pinot
Noir and 40% Chardonnay. They tell us Òthere is never any Pinot Meunier in
Grand Cru.Ó It is very impressive - fresh and bright in the nose with a
vigorous body, thanks to the 25 year-old vines. ThereÕs even a savoury tang at
the end.
GERARD DUBOIS (Cote des Blancs/Avize)
Gerard Dubois retired in 2008. He loves it. ÒI have given my
vines to my brother and nephew, I have a full cellar, can do a few meetings
with my favourite clients (thatÕll be us!) have lunch with my Mother more
frequently and go Scuba-Diving in the Red Sea.Ó Not that he ever looked
particularly stressed before, he is tanned and very smiley now. We always take
his delicious vintage Blanc de Blancs, 100% Chardonnay from the legendary
vineyards around his village of Avize. This time we have 1999 and 2001 and his
top-of-the-range Prestige bottling of a parcel of old vines which he ages
traditionally under cork. His wines often make us think of Meursault with
bubbles. Yum.
FORGET-CHEMIN (Montagne de Reims//Ludes)
This is the smaller and much sassier sister to Veuve Clicquot. Each year
Monsieur Forget sells some of his output to Veuve, jealously keeping the best
grapes for himself! In the village of Ludes, between Reims and Epernay, the
Champagnes are made in the classic Montagne de Reims style. He has 12 ha of
prime 1er Cru vines scattered over ten villages, four of which are in the
Montagne on chalk. Carte Blanche is a blend of three vintages made in equal
parts of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. We managed to hoover up the
last of his fabulous Rose in halves.
MICHEL HENRIET (Montagne de Reims/Verzenay)
You
can make out the village of Verzenay as you thunder south of Reims on the
Autoroute du Soleil. ItÕs the village nestling below the tree line on the
Montagne de Reims (which is more of a gentle incline than a mountain), the one
with the windmill and the lighthouse, which was a folly and is now a wine
museum. Magali runs the tiny, fifth generation, family domaine which carries
her fatherÕs name.
We
all love her excellent bottlings from the 2004 vintage.
HENRY DE VAUGENCY (Cote des Blancs/Oger)
Sounds shallow but it was the label which made us want to try Henry de
Vaugency. Spotted recently at 10 metres across a restaurant in Epernay with all
the Fleur de Lys and bold use of colour, we were slightly sceptical about how
the contents may taste. Against all our preconceptions the wine was delicious -
classic Cote des Blancs Chardonnay. Right in the centre of the village, the de
Vaugency domain is an eccentric set-up. Pascal Henry is the son-in-charge. His
parents started a collection of marriage artefacts and now run a ÒMuseum of
LoveÓ from the same location. There is something fabulously Gracelands about it
– a private shrine not to Elvis, but Marriage. Hope you (like us) fall in
love with these champagnes.
GEORGES LAVAL (Vallee de la Marne/Cumieres) BIODYNAMIC
Georges Laval, along with Jacques Beaufort above, was one of the
pioneers of Bio-dynamism in Champagne. Now made by his son Vincent, the wines
are high-class with their complex fennel, caraway nose and classic Cumieres
raciness. We often think of the village of Cumieres as something of a Montagne
de Reims/Cote des Blancs hermaphrodite – plenty of Pinot but also more
Chardonnay present than usual, providing racy freshness more often associated
with the Cote des Blancs just across the Marne. Vincent also showed us a barrel
of 100% old-vine Pinot Meunier which, if all goes well, he will bottle
separately. We hope so – it was fascinating!
LECLERC-BRIANT (Vallee de la
Marne/Epernay) BIODYNAMIC
UK Premiere of Leclerc-BriantÕs
biodynamic Champagnes from two single vineyards around the village of Cumieres across the river Marne from the city of
Epernay. Biodynamic is the extreme end of organic farming with every decision
ruled by the Lunar Calendar. Both made with wild yeasts, the Chevres Pierreuses (stony goats) has a striking,
almost herbal aroma that is constantly changing. Crayeres is broader and more
opulent.
Also check out their Rose Champagne, called Rubis. Instead of making
their Rose by blending still
red wine (Pinot Noir) into their base Champagne, as most growers do, they make
it by leaving the juice on the skins of their red grapes until it is the exact
colour they are looking for before briskly drawing off the juice and then
fermenting as normal. This is a very risky process!
SAINT CHAMANT (Cote des Blancs/Epernay)
Charming 79 year-old Monsieur
Christian Coquillette of Saint Chamant is the postcard picture of a more senior
vigneron - lean, lively, moustache, occasionally sporting a beret, poodle. Christian
whizzes around in his beaten-up van between his labyrinthine cellars under Epernay
and his old Chardonnay vines in Chouilly, the first Grand Cru village on the Cote
des Blancs. Champagne made from 100% Chardonnay, known as Blanc de Blancs, is
fresh and lemony when young and becomes magnificently nutty with age. Biscuity,
deep, round and rich, yet always with the background freshness of Chardonnay.
We just picked up some of his racy Rose and
his Brut Integrale, the driest of dry
Champagnes. Brace yourself! And, most importantly, everybodyÕs favourite
vintage Champagne, more of his 1999.
TRIBAUT-SCHLOESSER (Vallee de la Marne/Romery)
Our recent trawl around
Champagne was long and gruelling. The hard work at the chalk face is etched in
our faces (and waistlines). After the daily agony of tasting Champagne from
dawn until well after dusk comes the pleasure of returning with a full vanload
of bubbly beauties.
UK Premiere of this delicious,
utterly classic, Non-Vintage Brut Champagne from Tribaut-Schloesser, a small
family domaine in the small village of Romery tucked in a hollow at the Epernay end of the Marne valley. Utterly
classic in the sense that itÕs a blend of all three varietals: 40% Pinot Noir
from parcels in the Montagne de Reims, 30% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs
and 30% Pinot Meunier from their own village in the Vallee de la Marne. Classic too as itÕs a blend of
multiple vintages; 2007, 2006 with some older, Reserve wines. We were struck by
the sensory journey this wine takes you on. A journey to the centre of
Champagne, as it were. Do not miss their top-of-the-range Cuvee lÕAuthentique, a brilliant Champagne made from
their best parcels, the old fashioned way with long bottle aging under cork
rather than crown.
JEAN VELUT (Montgueux)
The wind roars across the flat plains of Champagne 100kms south of
Epernay. There is just one small hill - it's just west of the city of Troyes
and covered with vines, many of them Chardonnay. The village at the top of the
hill is Montgueux, recently hailed by a French Journalist as Òthe Montrachet of
the Cote des BarsÓ, and that's where we found the Velut family.