CHAMPAGNE
Champagne is vast. The northern sections fan out from Epernay. North
across he chalky Montagne de Reims towards Reims, west along the Marne
Valley towards Paris, then due southwards, the Chardonnay slopes called the
Cotes des Blancs. Way further south, there is Montgueux, to the west of Troyes
(where we found Jean Velut). Finally, in the bottom right hand corner, there is
the Aube, our fertile hunting ground for smaller family Champagnes. Our house
Champagne Amyot comes from this area.
MONTAGNE DE REIMS
JAQUES BEAUFORT (Ambonnay BIO-DYNAMIC
Mad? Dizzy? Eye-watering labels? Bio-dynamic? Yes to all of these from
the eccentric Jacques Beaufort, a delightful gem we unearthed on our visit to
Champagne last month. A picture of rural bliss, our conversation was almost
drowned out by the din of his geese, hens and a cockerel. Jacques was one of
the first two people (along with Georges Laval below) to begin practising
bio-dynamic wine-making in Champagne, in 1971, a time when the authorities made
it almost impossible to carry out their perfectionist (we like to call it
visionary) philosophy. Now of course, more are jumping on the band-wagon that
he started rolling!
He has 1.5ha in Ambonnay where he lives and a further 5ha an hours
drive south in Polissy in the Aube.
Gutsy and broad in the mouth, there is something deliciously hand-made
about all of his wines - distinctive Champagne with a mind of its own!
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Brut Reserve |
NV |
29.99 |
GEORGES LAVAL (Cumires) BIO-DYNAMIC
Georges Laval, along with Jacques Beaufort above, was one of the
pioneers of Bio-dynamism in Champagne. Now made by his son Vincent, the wines
are high-class with their complex fennel, caraway nose and classic Cumires
raciness. We often think of the village of Cumires as something of a Montagne
de Reims/Cotes des Blancs hermaphrodite – plenty of Pinot but also more
Chardonnay present than usual, providing racy freshness more often associated
with the Cote des Blancs just across the Marne. Vincent also showed us a barrel
of 100% old-vine Pinot Meunier which, if all goes well, he will bottle
separately. We hope so – it was fascinating!
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Brut Nature HALVES |
NV |
26.99 |
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Brut Nature |
NV |
49.99 |
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Ros |
NV |
48.99 |
DELAVENNE (Bouzy)
This is the everyday story of a family Domaine in the village of Bouzy,
started 4 generations ago when everyone had livestock, vegetables, grainand
some rows of Grand Cru vines on chalky Bouzy soil. The current Madame,
Marie-Paule, was from the neighbouring village of Cramant, duly bringing a
parcel of Cramant vines to the marriage. Their Cuve Tradition is 60% Pinot
Noir and 40% Chardonnay. They tell us there is never any Pinot Meunier in
Grand Cru. It is very impressive - fresh and bright in the nose with a
vigorous body, thanks to the 25 year-old vines. Theres even a savoury tang at
the end.
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Grand Cru Tradition |
NV |
27.99 |
FORGET-CHEMIN (Ludes)
This is the smaller and much sassier sister to Veuve Clicquot. Each year
Monsieur Forget sells some of his output to Veuve, jealously keeping the best
grapes for himself! In the village of Ludes, between Reims and pernay, the
Champagnes are made in the classic Montagne de Reims style. He has 12 ha of
prime 1er Cru vines scattered over ten villages, four of which are in the
Montagne on chalk. Carte Blanche is a blend of three vintages made in equal
parts of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. We managed to hoover up the
last of his fabulous Rose in halves.
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Forget-Chemin Carte Blancs Brut HALVES |
NV |
12.99 |
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Marie Forget Brut Halves |
NV |
14.99 |
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Marie Forget Brut |
NV |
25.99 |
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Forget-Chemin Ros Brut HALVES |
NV |
13.99 |
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Forget-Chemin Ros |
NV |
28.99 |
COTE DES BLANCS
Clearly visible from the motorway south of Reims the Cte des Blancs
runs south from pernay and boasts the highest concentration of Grand Cru
vineyards in the region. This is the home of Blanc de Blancs; 100% Chardonnay,
fresh, extremely elegant and fine.
SAINT CHAMANT (pernay)
Charming, moustachioed, elderly Monsieur Christian Coquillette of Saint
Chamant, often sporting a beret, has his labyrinthine cellars under pernay. He
took us for an exhilarating drive in his beaten-up 2CV out to Chouilly, the
first Grand cru village south of pernay on the Cte des Blancs, where he has
11 hectares of Chardonnay.
His Carte dOr Blanc de Blancs NV, a gold medal winner in Paris, has a
fresh, lemony nose with hints of aniseed and caraway and a lively body.
The Brut Millsim Blanc de Blancs 98 is fabulous. Fresh, deep and complete.
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Carte dOr Blanc de Blancs |
NV |
27.99 |
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Brut Millsim Blanc de Blancs |
1998 |
36.99 |
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Brut Millsim Blanc de Blancs |
1996 |
37.99 |
GERARD DUBOIS (Avize)
Gerard Dubois is gently winding-down towards his retirement and is
talking about passing his vines to his brothers kids. He assures us he has
plenty of supply for us for the foreseeable future. We have always loved his
vintage Blanc de Blancs. Like Meursault with bubbles.
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Blanc de Blancs |
1994 |
26.99 |
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Blanc de Blancs |
1993 |
29.99 |
HENRY DE VAUGENCY (Oger)
Sounds shallow but it was the label which made us want to try Henry de
Vaugency. Spotted recently at 10 metres across a restaurant in Epernay with all
the Fleur de Lys and bold use of colour, we were slightly sceptical about how
the contents may taste. Against all our preconceptions the wine was delicious -
classic Cotes des Blancs Chardonnay. Right in the centre of the village, the de
Vaugency domain is an eccentric set-up. Pascal Henry is the son-in-charge. His
parents started a collection of marriage artefacts and now run a Museum of
Love from the same location. There is something fabulously Gracelands about it
– a private shrine not to Elvis, but Marriage. Hope you (like us) fall in
love with these champagnes.
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Carte Noir |
NV |
27.99 |
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Cuve Selection |
NV |
29.99 |
PIERRE MONCUIT (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger)
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is the spiritual heart of the Cte des Blancs where
Pierre Moncuit makes fabulously expressive Blanc de Blancs. When we visited him
recently, Monsieur Moncuit reckoned he had lost 60-70% of his fruit in the
hailstorm which may affect his supply in two or three years. We can cross our
thumbs in the meantime and enjoy his current releases.
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Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vielles Vignes |
1999 |
30.99 |
VALLE DE LA MARNE
TARLANT (Oeuilly)
Tarlant is another family-owned domaine at Oeuilly in the Marne Valley
about 15kms west of pernay. Since 1687 the family has built up a holding of
13ha in three villages (Oeuilly, Celles les Conde and Boursault) on steep
sections of the valley. The family is passionate about their wines and the four
surviving generations still meet for the assemblage (blending) at the
end of April each year. It was Benot, the son, who stressed the concept of
the wines of Champagne rather than brands. .And what a wine-making palette
they have at their disposal! 45 parcels of vines at different elevations, 4
different soil types and all three of the classic grape varieties (Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier). Apparently, Chardonnay on sable (sand) is a
heavenly combination. Then there is the use of oak, still fairly rare in the
Champagne region. They use 12% new oak and every cuve spends some time in oak.
Some cuves are fermented in barrel with btonnage (stirring of the
lees to add further complexity) while others age in oak after fermention in
tanks. With the exception of the luxury Cuve Louis, where the oak is clearly
noticeable, the oak is used discreetly, generally adding another layer of
texture and flavour.
Brut Zero is a remarkable wine. No dosage (without the usual sugar in
the liqueur dexpedition added after dgorgement) means it is absolutely bone
dry. If you ever wondered what Champagne really tastes like, this is it!
Focused, complex and clear. Best with food. Great with fish (lemon sole, sea
bass) or goats cheese.
The Brut Prestige 96 is 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir and has a
lovely nose. Creamy, rich and mouthfilling 30-40% barrel-fermented.
Cuve Louis is their award-winning luxury cuve named after Benots
Great Grandfather who replanted their vineyards after WW2 in 1946 and 1947.
Super-rich nose, spicy with a shot of toasty vanilla oak. Bags of flavour,
almost like sparkling Meursault. Super-long and complex.
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Rose |
NV |
28.99 |
THE AUBE
JEAN VELUT (Montgueux)
The wind roars across the flat plains of Champagne 100kms south of
Epernay. There is just one small hill - it's just west of the city of Troyes
and covered with vines, many of them Chardonnay. The village at the top of the
hill is Montgueux, recently hailed by a French Journalist as the Montrachet of
the Cotes des Bars, and that's where we found the Velut family.
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Cuve Tradition |
NV |
22.99 |
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Cuve Speciale Blanc de Blancs |
NV |
24.99 |
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Cuve Millsime |
1999 |
26.99 |
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Ros |
NV |
24.99 |
CHAMPAGNE CHRISTOPHE (Colombey-les-Sec)
A family Domaine for 3 generations in the tiny village of
Colombey-les-Sec, near the de Gaulle memorial at Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises. Across
the range they are beautifully made, with impressive complexity, bright
freshness and good depth of flavour. Tradition is 80% Pinot Noir with 20%
Chardonnay from a sunny slope overlooking the village.
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Brut Tradition HALVES |
NV |
12.99 |
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Brut Tradition |
NV |
19.99 |
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Cuve Prestige |
NV |
22.99 |
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Cuve Imperial |
NV |
29.99 |
ERICK SCHREIBER (Courteron) BIO-DYNAMIC
It was snowy when we visited, the van sliding unpredictably. We were
determined to taste Bio-Dynamic Champagne. We did the meeting in Ericks
kitchen, a fantastically lived-in family kitchen with laundry drying on racks.
Bio-dynamic Champagne? What does that taste like? Erick Schreiber went
bio in 1990. He says he was the first. "Organic is a bit passive,
Bio-Dynamic is active - it's about micro-biology." Constantly
experimenting with the soil, the different communes, with oak, with lees
contact, with blending and aging, he says he's "like an orchestra
conductor". The wines? Impressive. Fragrant.
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Grande Reserve |
NV |
23.99 |
AMYOT (Loche-sur-Ource)
Many of you already know our classic House Champagne. Amyot is a small,
family producer based in the Aube, closer to Dijon than Reims. Jancis Robinson
gave it a great review in the FT. At a recent blind Taste-off for an Asset
Management company in the City, the Amyot NV came out top. Year in, year out
its big, bold and incredible value!
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Carte Or |
N.V. |
16.99 |
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Carte Or HALVES |
N.V. |
9.99 |