FRIULI
FRANCO TOROS
(Cormons/Collio)
Franco Toros makes the most intense
examples of Pinot Grigio, Tocai Fruilano and Pinot Bianco we have come across in
Friuli. Here is his top-class, top-shelf, top-quality Pinot Bianco from the
sweetest sweet-spot in Friuli, not the ÒCollio OrientaliÓ, the ÒCollioÓ. La-di-dah!
Treated to a spell in some new oak, the Pinot Bianco is very vinous, serious,
almost Burgundian in its finesse. A refreshing change from all that Meursault
we drink!
FrancoÕs Tocai Fruilano is
magnificently complex, packed with nuts, delicate flowers, a hint of mandarine
oil. Do not ask our colleague (half-Hungarian) Kristian what he thinks of the
Friulian use of the word ÒTocaiÓ, unless you are ready for a ten minute tirade.
|
white |
|
|
|
|
|
PINOT
GRIGIO |
2005 |
19.99 |
|
|
TOCAI FRIULANO |
2006 |
19.99 |
|
|
PINOT BIANCO |
2005 |
19.99 |
|
|
PINOT BIANCO |
2006 |
19.99 |
ALESSANDRO VICENTINI
ORGNANI (Valeriano/Grave)
There was a massive
earthquake in 1976 which reduced the Orgnani home to rubble. The family moved
their home into the winery and the winery into the barn. Alessandro studied
architecture in Venice before changing direction, returning to the family
winery which his mathematician father had set-up in the 1950Õs in Valeriano, a
tiny village 200m above sea-level in the foothills of the Alps, just as they
rise out of the Friuli-Grave plain. Whereas his father sold all his wine to the
local co-op, Alessandro has gradually overhauled and modernised, now bottling
his entire output himself. He has 20ha of vines all around the house, ÒBraide
CjaseÓ as they call it in Friuli.
ÒWhatÕs the point of
making another Chardonnay?Ó says Alessandro when we ask him about the gnarled
old Chardonnay vines. It is good Chardonnay, we tell him, but you can see his
point. ÒWe should concentrate on what we do wellÓ – Friuli is best known
for its fabulous whites – Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, unique Sauvignon,
but most of all for its Tocai Friulano. No relation to Hungarian Tokay or
Alsatian Tokay Pinot Gris, it has a beautiful honeysuckle nose and, when made
at low yields, a creamy rich texture. Beautiful with many foods, it is often
drunk in Friuli with San Danieli ham, the local highly-prized variation of
Parma, and with creamy locally made cheeses.
|
white |
|
|
|
|
|
PINOT
GRIGIO |
2006 |
8.50 |
|
|
TOCAI FRIULANO |
2006 |
8.50 |