GERMANY
Germany is the home of Riesling. And in Germany
it expresses itself quite differently to anywhere else on the planet. Ethereal,
bewitching, haunting. Sometimes delicate, sometimes bold and powerful, always
fascinating and usually with a gravity-defying lightness of touch.
Revel in Riesling. Marvel at its minerality. Be
dazzled by its diversity. Delicate and powerful. Refined and rugged. Complex
yet approachable. The glories of German Riesling!
A note about German wine labelling
A classical German label will usually show the
grower, the vintage and the bit that some find intimidating: Name of the
village, name of the vineyard, the grape, the Pradikat level (Kabinett/Spatlese/Auslese
etc) and whether it is vinified dry or fruity. Trocken means dry.
(Alcohol levels are also a clue – the
lower the number, the more likely it is to be a sweet/fruity wine)
Some of the key Regions:
MOSEL
Minerality
and piercing purity.
We
seem to spend more and more of our time on the Mosel. Not so strange. Known for
its lightness of touch, ethereal delicacy, raciness and terroir definition.
RHEINGAU
Classical and perfumed.
Long-lived,
fragrant Riesling. Often floral on the nose, with wonderful body, structure and
precision.
The Rhine takes a sharp turn west at
Mainz before turning north again at Rudesheim. The south-facing slope on the
north bank between the two is the Rheingau, thick with castles, convents and
vineyards. This is the classical home of Riesling with evocative names like
Steinberg, Marcobrunn, Johannisberg, Hochheim. Hochheim was Queen Victoria's
favourite wine - and where the word ŇHockÓ comes from, back when German wines
were the most expensive in the world.
AHR
Autumnal,
silky, sappy Pinot Noir.
Until
you try Pinot Noir from Germany (known as Spatburgunder) your journey into the
sensual, gently autumnal underbelly of the grape will be incomplete. The tiny Ahr valley
lies in one of the northernmost winemaking regions of Germany, near Bonn.
Romans planted vines here. Some say the sheltered valley has an almost
Mediterranean micro-climate. We wouldn't go quite that far, but there is little
doubt that it is the best Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder) region in Germany, these
wines displaying the haunting layers of flavour and texture that Pinot fanatics
crave.
RHEINHESSEN
A region in flux
Rheinhessen, fertile and almost entirely flat, was the source of
oceans of watery, sugary Liebfraumilch in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Today there is
a real movement taking hold as a new generation of growers take over. They have
seen what is possible in other parts of Germany and are determined to make
great wine.
NAHE
Spicy and
plump.
Considered to be plump, rich and firm, some people say earthy. Classic,
fine, age-worthy wines from historic sites.
MITTELRHEIN
Bracing acidity
From the picture postcard scenery of
castles and towers and the legend of Lorelei, a siren who would lure boatmen to
crash onto the rocks.
FRANKEN
Volcanic playground
Minerals and Bocksbeutel.
PFALZ
Fatter, rounder. Sometimes
earthier.
Much closer to France in style. Some
standout growers.
BADEN
Earthy and
ripe. Some great Pinots.
WURTTEMBERG
A large region with a diversity
of grapes and styles.
Intriguing, distinctive reds. Some
spicy whites.
SACHSEN
Region to watch.
How can they make wine this far
north? Klaus Zimmerling is the standout grower here.
We recommend you donŐt get bogged down in this:
The Pradikat system – the ladder of
quality
Determined entirely by the ripeness of the
grapes at picking, measured in Oechsle.
QbA (Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete)
–
can be dry (trocken) or sweet or between
(halb-trocken/feinherb)
QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat):
Kabinett - can be dry (trocken) or sweet or
between (halb-trocken/feinherb)
Spatlese - can be dry (trocken) or sweet or
between (halb-trocken/feinherb)
Auslese – usually sweet, but can be dry
(trocken) or half-dry
(halb-trocken/feinherb)
Beerenauslese
Trockenbeerenauslese
Eiswein
New Term:
Highest level in dry wines, equivalent to Grand Cru: Grosses Gewachs
(labelled Erstes Gewachs in the Rheingau). Always bears the name of the
vineyard .
SWEET
Although we specialise in dry Riesling
at The Winery, the charms of sweet Riesling are not wasted on us. The
botrytis-laden late-picked sweet styles are like no other dessert wines. Even
at the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese level of sweetness, they always
have a refreshing lift of acidity which stop them from becoming cloying.