THE
LOIRE
We
weren't expecting our trip to the Loire to be such a revelation. We found
growers, many quite young, less shackled by tradition, more willing to
experiment and, unusually for France, we found growers who had no previous
background in wine. The very long valley is dripping with bio-dynamic
influence.
Biodynamism;
organic viticulture taken to the extreme, ruled by the lunar calendar - man,
moon and earth in perfect harmony.
Those
that weren't ÒBioÓ or ÒDemeterÓ were often ÒLžtte RaisonŽeÓ or ÒLžtte
IntegrŽeÓ, a half-way system in which vines are only treated after Òrigorous
observationÓ: ÉI treat only if needed, not because IÕll be safer if I treat
continually (which is still the norm).
CENTRAL
VINEYARDS
The
Loire and Sauvignon Blanc go hand in hand, so we started near Sancerre over in
the Eastern section, which one can forget is less than an hour from Chablis. We
also wanted to check out some other villages famous for Sauvignon Blanc and
found fruit-driven, but not blousy styles from ValŽry Renaudat in Reuilly. Not the only example in
the wine world, the apparently mild-mannered son had a massive blow-out with
his father and has gone his own way, bought a few of his own vines and built a
cellar. Zingy, zesty Reuilly, evocative of fresh running water, lime blossom
and camomile flowers. Fabulous Quincy from sandy soil with a super-present
nose.
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white |
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REUILLY
Renaudat |
2007 |
11.99 |
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QUINCY
Renaudat |
2007 |
12.50 |
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red |
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REUILLY
Renaudat |
2005 |
11.99 |
TOURAINE
The
home of Cabernet Franc.
Pascal
and Beatrice Lambert - Chinon BIO-DYNAMIC
Pascal's
father was a vigneron, but there were seven children and the family domaine
ended up in one of his brother's hands so he started up on his own in 1987.
He's quite intense and determined - something confirmed in the eyes of his (one
suspects) long-suffering wife, BŽatrice. We are big fans of their Chinons -
unexpectedly lush Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. When we visited last,
we caught Pascal dynamising rainwater for one of his bio-dynamic preparations -
a memory etched in our minds. It was a process involving stirring, one way then
the other, for 45 minutes. Does it make a difference? We think so.
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white |
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CHINON
Les Chesnaies |
2007 |
19.99 |
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red |
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CHINON
Tradition Graves |
2006 |
11.99 |
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CHINON
Les Perruches |
2004 |
12.50 |
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CHINON
Les Perruches |
2005 |
15.99 |
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CHINON
Danae |
2004 |
16.99 |
Catherine
and Pierre Breton – Bourgueil BIO-DYNAMIC
Then
from Bourgueil, husband and wife team Catherine and Pierre Breton each make
their own cuvŽes, but don't like each others' wines! We think they are
brilliant. People with memories of 1991 may remember Catherine and Pierre's
wines from Oddbins and Waitrose. Then they had a major change of direction.
They went biologique. Quality skyrocketed, as did their costs and their prices,
and the UK market stalled. They make some of the purest, most refined Cabernet
Francs from a variety of sites across 16.5ha of very acidic Verjul soil
(clay/silex). They pick very late and all except ÒLes GalichetsÓ wines go into
barrique for fermentation and a very long ŽlŽvage with plenty of lees contact.
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red |
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BOURGUEIL
Galichets |
2006 |
12.99 |
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BOURGUEIL
Perrieres |
2004 |
17.99 |
ANJOU
The
home of Chenin Blanc in all its beautiful forms.
Jo
Pithon
The
Layon, a tributary of the Loire, is not much more than a stream. It's a steep,
tightly-winding river and tends to attract mist and fog in autumn - perfect
conditions for botrytis, the "noble rot" which creates the world's
most sought-after dessert wines. Larger than life, jovial, bear-like, bushy
sideburn-ed Jo Pithon is famous for his dessert wines made from Chenin Blanc
affected by the noble rot. Many believe Chenin to be France's finest white wine
grape. You can sometimes find hints of marmalade, coconuts, dried pineapple and
even truffle in the nose. The highly-strung Chenin acidity stops the wine from
ever being cloying, also giving it long ageing potential. The Bonnes Blanches
2001 is dizzily complex and intense.
Jo
has recently branched out and has also been making some serious dry Chenin
Blanc under the Anjou appellation.
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white |
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ANJOU
ÒLES PEPINIERESÓ HALVES |
2006 |
7.99 |
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ANJOU
ÒLES PEPINIERESÓ |
2006 |
15.99 |
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sweet |
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COTEAUX
DU LAYON ÒLES 4 VILLAGESÓ HALVES |
2006 |
14.99 |
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BONNES
BLANCHES HALVES |
2004 |
24.99 |
PAYS
NANTAIS
The
home of Muscadet.
Michel
Bedouet
We
all love MichelÕs ridiculously affordable de-classified Muscadet ÒLe
ConvivialÓ. White flowers in the nose, briney in the mouth, crisp, dry and
punching way above its weight.
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white |
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LE
CONVIVIAL |
NV |
5.99 |
Domaine
de la Bregeonnette - Stephane Orieux BIO-DYNAMIC
Modern
Muscadet has come a long way since the 1980's, no longer mean and green but
still a perfect choice for seafood and simple fish dishes. StŽphane Orieux's
Biodynamic wines are ample and broad. The vines are grown on Schiste and
Granite soils and the wine is aged on its lees with regular stirring, giving it
a layered and broad feel in the mouth. Normal practice elsewhere, forbidden for
Muscadet, itÕs almost as if he has allowed some malolactic fermentation to take
place. That canÕt be - cÕest interdit! Well, whatever he's doing, we like it;
complex, flavourful Muscadet.
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white |
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MUSCADET |
2007 |
8.99 |