The Pfalz
Koehler-Ruprecht (Kallstadt)
Bernd Philippi, the estateÕs
energetic owner, and Axel Heinzmann, the cellarmaster, make some of the
greatest dry Rieslings in the world from the Saumagen vineyard outside
Kallstadt at the north end of the region. They have all the dizzy tropical
notes of Pfalz Riesling along with the steel and presence of the finest dry
Rieslings from Alsace, but with their own utterly distinctive character. With wineries also in Portugal and South Africa, whenever we see him,
owner Bernd Philippi is always in a rush. "Do you ever get a moment to
relax?" we ask. "No time for that. Got to go, bye!"
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trocken |
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Kallstadter Saumagen Muskateller
Kabinett trocken |
2004 |
9.99 |
Rebholz (Siebeldingen)
Hansjšrg RebholzÕs plots
in the Bundsandstein Vineyard are made up of sandstone, which is typical of the
Pfalz and is great for both Riesling and Weissburgunder. The best plot within
this vineyard is ÔIm SonnenscheinÕ (In Sunshine) and provides the grapes for
the Grosses GewŠchs for both varieties. The winery has been in the family for
350 years and many experiments have taken place in matching grape variety to
soil type. Rebholz doesnÕt chaptalise or fine his wines.
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trocken |
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Im
Sonnenschein Weissburgunder Grosses GewŠchs |
2002 |
26.99 |
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Im
Sonnenschein Riesling Grosses GewŠchs |
2003 |
28.99 |
Dr
Wehrheim (Birkweiler)
Dr Karl-Heinz
Wehrheim took over from his father in 1985. Charming quiet-spoken, he is a big
mate of Hansjšrg Rebholz metres away in the next village. He regularly hunts
deer and wild boar in the local forest. We had several amazing pieces of
venison for dinner when we visited. All his wines are modern and high-class
from the zingy Silvaner through the broad, creamy Weisserburgunder (Pinot
Blanc), to the spicy exotic Riesling ÒRotliegendesÓ from red soil, rich in
iron. Then to the reds: The SpŠtburgunder trocken 2002 is well-balanced, smoky
and autumnal with a shot of peppery tannins in the tail.
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white |
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Weissburgunder SpŠtlese trocken |
2003 |
13.99 |
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Mandelberg Weisser Burgunder Grosses GewŠchs |
2003 |
25.99 |