PIEDMONT

 

Barolo is always a treat and many say it is Italy's greatest wine. Who are we to disagree? It comes from the rippled Piedmontese landscape just south of Alba. An hour's drive south of Turin. As you look from the highest point, the hilltop town of La Morra across the valley you can pick out the townships on their respective hills, evoking mediaeval times.

 

Despite the value of Barolo, until quite recently Piemonte was really quite poor. Relying heavily on the land and very much at the mercy of the harsh mountain winters, life was pretty hard. A recurring (and slightly irreverent) theme around the valley was that the men were always groomed to run the small family farms, usually leaving school prematurely. What to do with the girls? – Oh, send them to school and college, maybe they can get a job in the towns and cities…As a result, many of the women speak more languages than the usual Piemontese dialect and Italian. It was Daniela Veglio who smilingly told us “that’s why our men are so stupid!” – one way of looking at it maybe, but they can certainly make great wine!

 

Although it seems to us as if Barolo has always been a classic fine wine, in the 1800s and first half of the 1900s Barbera was considered finer and was always planted in the prime spots. Nebbiolo, the grape which finds its purest expression in Barolo and Barbaresco, was just too difficult, too tough. It needed such a long time in bottle (routinely 20-30 years) to tame its aggressive tannins and awkward acidity.

 

Barolo’s stature was increasing in the mid 1960’s and there was a revolution in the mid 70’s led by Elio Altare and friends who modernised their winemaking, seeking to control the tannin levels and boost aromas. There is still a rift between traditionalists and modernistas (usually referred to as “barrique” wines in the area), the traditionalists saying the modern wines are just too oaky and won’t age and the modernistas saying the traditional wines are undrinkable young and why wait 30 years to find if the wine is any good?

What we found on our trip was a rich and satisfying third way opening up – where some growers have eased back on the new oak, aiming for a wine with the weight, body and power of some of the better traditionalists, but with the perfume, nuance and sheer approachability of the modernists.

 

Like Burgundy, there is a clear definition of styles from township to township; Monforte – powerful, tough. La Morra – elegant, perfumed. Serralunga – sleek minerality and poise. Barolo – power and perfume. Also a “cru” system has taken increasing hold over the past few years with “cru” vineyards such as “Cannubi”, “Arborina” and “Rocche” specified on the label. These are considered a higher level than straight village Barolo – and equivalent to 1er cru status. Mauro Sebaste says the “cru” is now more important than the old fashioned Riserva system.

 

Many are experimenting with super-cuvées of Barbera and Langhe Rosso blends in various combinations of Barbera, Nebbiolo, Freisa, Brachetto and international varieties like Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir. Still, the unique noble grape of the region is Nebbiolo, now planted in all the prime positions and with a string of very good to excellent vintages (with 2 exceptions) over the last 15 years Barolo is highly valued as one of the great red wines of the world. We love it!

 

 

CASCINA DELLE ROSA (TRE STELLE/BARBARESCO)

Chain-smoking powerhouse Giovanna Rizzolio had had enough of the fashion journalism world in Milan when she moved into her grandparents' house (with her new husband and his teenage sons) in the Tre Stelle hamlet along the ridge from Barbaresco. She started a guesthouse and decided to bottle her own wine.

Most Dolcetto is light, bright, breezy and crunchy. Brace yourself, Giovanna's is quite different, with its dark, meaty, almost sweaty nose and startling weight and body. This may all sound a bit “locker room”, but fortunately there's a wonderful core of blackberry fruit running through it. We now have the full compliment. A lush Barbera, bold Nebbiolo and Giovanna’s much-missed 04 Barbaresco.

 

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	DOLCETTO D’ALBA “A ELIZABETH”	2006	11.50
	BARBERA D’ALBA “RIO SORDO”	2005	13.99
	NEBBIOLO “RIO SORDO”	2005	15.99
	BARBARESCO “RIO SORDO”	2004	27.99

 

 

GIANFRANCO ALESSANDRIA (MONFORTE)

Barolo from Monforte d'Alba is considered the bruiser, the most macho and powerful. This is where Gianfranco and Bruna Alessandria and daughters live. With our virtually non-existent Italian (until the arrival of Giorgio), communication has usually relied on warm good-will here. This time it flowed beautifully - their daughter Vittoria, now 16, has been learning English. Gianfranco continues to use the traditional fermentation methods, punching down the cap in open-top fermentation vats. Having said this, the wines are far from traditional. Tiny quantities, low yield. He manages to combine raw power with silky finesse.

Alessandria's Barolos, usually punishing young, have become increasingly approachable since the ripe, almost jammy 2003 vintage. The 2004 has just arrived. Every grower was raving about the 2004s. “Like the 2001s - only better”…Wow!

 

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	DOLCETTO D’ALBA	2007	11.99
	BARBERA D’ALBA	2007	13.99
	NEBBIOLO LANGHE	2006	17.50
	BARBERA D’ALBA “VITTORIA”	2005	26.99
	BAROLO	2004	33.99
	BAROLO “SAN GIOVANNI”	2004	43.99

 

 

MAURO VEGLIO (ANNUNZIATA/LA MORRA)

New releases arriving before Christmas

 

 

OSVALDO VIBERTI (SERRA DEI TURCHI/LA MORRA)

We were brought to Osvaldo's door by this fabulous Barolo. His house is in a small cluster of farm buildings on a small ridge between Alba and the hilltop village of La Morra called “Serra dei Turchi”, the “Ridge of Turks”. There was a Turkish encampment on this ridge centuries ago. 2001 is an outstanding, powerful vintage and Osvaldo made the most of it. Perfectly capturing the alluring perfume of La Morra Barolo, a mixture of truffles, roses and Earl Grey tea.

 

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	BAROLO “SERRA DEI TURCHI”	2001	29.99

 

 

EDOARDO SOBRINO (DIANO D’ALBA)

This is the guy who made his living with a successful Tile business. So successful that he was able to buy the house and vines next door to Roberto Voerzio, his favourite Barolo Producer. So the story goes,  Edoardo leans over the fence and asks Roberto, “so what do I do now?” and Roberto shows him. However it happens, we were so mightily impressed with his Vecchie Vigne 2001 that his wines are now on our shelves.

 

red
	DOLCETTO	2006	11.99
	BAROLO VECCHIE VIGNE DI MONVIGLIERO PISAPOLA	2003	33.99