PROVENCE
MAS DE CADENET Ctes de Provence
The artist Cezanne was so fascinated by the Mont Sainte-Victoire
east of Aix-en-Provence that he painted it many times. It forms the stunning
backdrop for Guy Ngrel's Mas de Cadenet vineyards. Guy, with help from his son
and daughter, not only makes classic Provencal Ross but some tangy whites and
juicy herbal reds.
LArbaude white is 100% Colombard. Sainte Victoire white is a
fabuous, oily 100% Rolle (otherwise known as Vermentino).
LArbaude Ros is a classic summery 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault,
15% Carignan. Sainte Victoire has more weight and texture.
The
Sainte Victoire red is juicy, herbal and evocative of the "garrigue",
the warm scents of thyme and rosemary drifting across the lavender-filled,
bushy Provencal landscape. 45% Grenache, 45% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The
Mas Ngrel red is top-of-the-range and could
age gracefully for 10 years, if you can wait that long.
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white |
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SAINTE VICTORIE HALVES |
2006 |
5.99 |
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LARBAUDE |
2006 |
7.50 |
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SAINTE VICTORIE |
2006 |
8.99 |
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rose |
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SAINTE VICTORIE HALVES |
2006 |
5.99 |
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LARBAUDE |
2006 |
7.50 |
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SAINTE VICTORIE |
2006 |
8.99 |
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red |
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SAINTE
VICTORIE HALVES |
2004 |
5.99 |
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SAINTE VICTORIE |
2004 |
8.99 |
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MAS
NEGREL |
2004 |
16.99 |
DOMAINE DE LA TOUR DU
BON (Bandol)
Mourvdre is king in Bandol and Agns Henry is queen in her
village high up in the hills. Playing only a minor part in southern Rhone blends,
here Mourvdre expresses all of its dark and meaty potential.
Bandol has eight separate villages, each with
its own differing geology and microclimate. Up in the commune of Le Brulat is
Domaine de la Tour du Bon, run by Agns, whose father originally bought the
domaine in 1968. She has 23 hectares (of which 1 is white) on chalky soil, with
some maritime influence. Her red wines are simply brilliant - deep black fruit,
massive structure, spice and pepper. Will last for 20 years but, because of the
massive fruit content, are just about drinkable now. The Bandol 2004 is 55%
Mourvdre, 35% Grenache and 20% Cinsault. The
Cuve Saint-Ferrol, 90% Mourvdre with 10%
Carignan, is bigger still. Always from a particular 3ha plot of 30-35yo vines,
almost a closthe wine is dark and broodyalmost feral!
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red |
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BANDOL
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2004 |
16.99 |
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BANDOL
SAINT FERREOL |
2004 |
27.99 |
SAINT ANDR DE
FIGUIRE
Provence is well-known
for its ros, but we were taken aback by Alain Combards winesros at another
level!
Alain was right-hand man
for Michel Laroche in Chablis before moving to Provence 13 years ago. His son
and three daughters (who each have a Cuve named after them) all work with him
on his organic domaine. He says its relatively easy to be organic in Provence
because, if it rains, the hot wind dries the vineyard before theres any chance
of rot.
Theres a fabulous sense
of progression through the wines in his range. He has a range of grapes in each
colour at his disposal, and you get a sense of constant experimentation and
tweaking to achieve an impressive set of variations. Beautifully-judged,
stylish and often surprising wines.
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white |
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CUVEE
DELPHINE RESERVE |
2001 |
17.99 |