TRENTINO
CASTEL NOARNA
The Magical Mountain Kingdom
of NoarnaÉ.
We had spent an hour aimlessy
driving around Rovereto (a key town in the long valley which runs north from
Verona up into the Alps), occasionally stopping to ask for directions which,
although well-intentioned, didnÕt seem to work. Then we realised there were two
addresses. The one we needed was for a village at the base of a mountain. As we
drove out of the town we spotted an amazing castle perched half way up the
mountain. ÒIt canÕt possibly be thatÉ.can it?Ó ThatÕs exactly where it was.
Marco ZaniÕs father had bought it from the family in whose hands it had been
since the mediaeval period and who had finally fallen on hard times in the
1980s.
MarcoÕs wines are as full of
character as the crazy location. Nosiola, usually a mouth-puckering Trentino
white, in MarcoÕs hands is fleshier and nuttier. His star wine is his Bianco di
Noarna, an unfeasible blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the
teensiest splash of Traminer. You wouldnÕt think it would work and yet it does.
Not over aromatic, but with bags of layered, high-altitude character. Salvanel
is the entry-level version of the same blend, named after a mythical
mischievous faun-like animal who would protect children lost in the woods.
Marco also has a couple of reds. Trentino reds tend to be a bit slippery and
grapey and his Lagrein is no exception, the closest thing to grape juice you
can find. Romeo is his serious red, made from Cabernet, Merlot and Lagrein. It
has a sweet, rich depth and an almost Valpolicella Superiore-like, airy quality
about it. Come, taste the Magical Mountain Kingdom of Noarna!
|
white |
|
|
|
|
|
SALVANEL |
2004 |
9.99 |
|
|
NOSIOLA |
2004 |
11.99 |
|
|
BIANCO DI CASTELNUOVO |
2004 |
13.99 |
|
red |
|
|
|
|
|
LAGREIN |
2005 |
10.99 |
|
|
ROMEO |
2003 |
18.99 |
LETRARI
Back down in the town we found
Letrari. Well-known in the area. Patriarchal. Leonello, the father, came in on
his Ivy League son DavidÕs presentation like Marlon Brando or Al Pacino. A
daunting presence, with a surprisingly light touch to his wines. A sparkling
vintage Brut Methodo Classico made from Chardonnay was irresistible and set the
tone. Pinot Bianco, waxy, creamy, polished - yes. Pinot Grigio with its
profound perfume - classy. On through the tasting into the very Italian reds.
Teraldego – fresh, bright. Enantio, with its sleek, dark nose and its
sense of brooding below the surface. Then a helter-skelter ride in the mouth
with saturated fruit and a rush of breezy freshness.
|
sparkling |
|
|
|
|
|
BRUT |
2003 |
19.99 |
|
white |
|
|
|
|
|
PINOT BIANCO |
2006 |
10.99 |
|
|
PINOT GRIGIO |
2006 |
11.50 |
|
red |
|
|
|
|
|
TERALDIGO CERVAIA DEL FAVO |
2004 |
14.99 |
|
|
ENANTIO |
2003 |
29.99 |