TUSCANY
BOSCARELLI (Montepulciano)
Montepulciano is
best known for its Vino Nobile and it's fair to say that, despite tasting
relentlessly, the charm of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had passed us by. Until
one chilly night in January when we were sitting in ÒLa Brocca d'OroÓ the only
Trattoria open in Chianciano Terme, Montepulciano's neighbour. We told our
young host Leonardo that we had an appointment with Boscarelli the following
morning and asked what should we drink tonight. He said Òdrink the Boscarelli.
There's nothing better.Ó Over the following 90 minutes we had what could be
best described as an awakening. Back in London, a few months later, their
exquisite Vino Nobile did not stay on our shelves for long.
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De Ferrari Rosso IGT |
2006 |
15.99 |
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Prugnolo Rosso di Montalcino |
2006 |
16.99 |
IL COLLE (Montalcino)
ÒBrunello for the
people!Ó Caterina di Carli was talking about her Rosso di Montalcino and how
she cares just as much about her Rosso as her Brunello. Caterina has been
making the wine since she inherited the small estate from her father who was a
full-time lawyer with a Brunello-making hobby. He pretty much despatched his
entire output himself, which might have accelerated his rather premature
demise. The style is unreconstructed traditional. She uses wild yeasts -
something we have rarely seen outside of Biodynamic white wine making. This can
give some challenging aromas - exciting, raw and dangerous. In the mouth they
are elegant and pure. No trace of oak. Just ripe, bright, almost breezy fruit.
CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA (Montalcino)
Canalicchio's
Nonno Pacenti was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio del
Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, to raise the flag of Brunello above the
parapets. Things have moved on since then. The reputation of Brunello now
jostles with Barolo for primacy as Italy's finest red and Nonno's grandsons are
running the Canalicchio show. Francesco is studying Economics and Commerce.
He's the one who takes care of business. Marco, his brother, handles
production. Their wines are enigmatic. Rich, ripe and yet with a dark twist
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Rosso di Montalcino |
2006 |
17.99 |
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Brunello di Montalcino |
2003 |
38.99 |
PODERE CIONA (Gaiole)
Having travelled
the world for Exxon, Franco and Franca Gatteschi thought they'd had enough of
jet-setting and red tape and that they'd retire to Gaiole deep in the the hills
of Chianti-shire. They bought Podere
Ciona from the monastry. Oddly, there were very few vines as the monks just
kept sheep and pigs. To stop them getting bored, they opened an Agriturismo and
planted some vines. Some retirement! There's no getting away from the paperwork
and we thoroughly enjoyed Franco's enthusiastic rant about Italian bureaucracy.
We can almost picture him as one of those guys who move into the hills and
forests of Montana. There the similarity ends. Instead of trapping boar and
law-enforcers they run cookery classes and make modern, silky wines; stylish
Chianti Riserva, a fabulous Merlot IGT called Le Diacce and Montegrossoli,
their charming Sangiovese.
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Montegrossoli |
2004 |
11.99 |
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Chianti Classico Riserva |
2004 |
19.99 |
LA MARCELLINA (Panzano)
The history of Tuscany drips
with jealousy and blood. Nowhere more than in the heart of Chianti-shire. La
Marcellina is named after Marcello, the first owner of Fabio Castellacci's
house back in feudal times who was gifted a lookout tower at the bottom of the
hill by the Sire of Panzano Castle for a "special favour" done on his
behalf. We take this to mean Òdisposing of someone undesirableÓ. Wind forward
300 years and the farm belongs to Fabio's Grandfather, the baker and grocer of
Panzano, who started making wine as a hobby. Wind forward another 50 years and
Fabio is making charming, pure Chianti Classico with a deft, assured touch.
The track down to their house
is so rutted and the hill so steep that no lorry can get down it, so Fabio had
to bring his wines up to the top in his 4-wheel drive to meet our transporter.
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Ser Marcello Rosso di Toscana |
2006 |
12.99 |
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Camporosso UGT |
2004 |
19.99 |
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Sassocupo Chianti Classico Riserva |
2004 |
22.99 |
PRATESI (Carmignano)
Carmignano is an
appellation from just south-west of Florence. Like a Chianti, but with a splash
of sunshine-soaked Cabernet Sauvignon. Although the Pratesi's have always done
their wine Òon the sideÓ (father and sons working as engineers and car dealers)
they are serious about the quality. Supple, high-class, high-toned Tuscan reds.
DREOLINO (Rufina)
We stumbled across a delicious Chianti
Rufina by Dreolino in the unassuming and excellent Trattoria Tre Soldi in
Florence. The following morning we were knocking on their door. While their labels
are unlikely to win Graphics Awards
(could the straight Chianti label be the most garish label in the
shop?), their wines are honest and breezy. Bright, charming Chianti.
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Chianti |
2006 |
8.99 |
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Chianti Rufina |
2006 |
10.99 |
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Petroio |
2006 |
13.99 |
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Lieto Evento IGT |
2007 |
16.99 |
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Chianti Rufina Riserva |
2003 |
17.99 |
FATTORIA VICCHIO (Montespertoli)
The Piazzini
family have two estates, one within the Chianti Classico zone, the other high
up in the hills in the Chianti Montespertoli just south of Florence. The original
building dates back to 1700. They run a very arty pizza restaurant on the first
floor of their winery. We were delighted by these fleshy Chiantis, classic
blends of mainly Sangiovese, with a splash of Canaiolo.
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Poggio San Pietro |
2006 |
7.99 |
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Chianti Torrato |
2006 |
8.99 |