TUSCANY
BOSCARELLI
(MONTEPULCIANO)
Ohmygod. ItÕs
fair to say the charm of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had passed us by. Until
now. We have tasted relentlessly. Modern, old, very modern and so on. We were
in ÒLa Brocca dÕOroÓ the only Trattoria open in January in Chianciano Terme,
MontepulcianoÕs neighbour. We told our young host Leonardo that we had an
appointment with Boscarelli the following morning and what should we drink
tonight. He said Òdrink the Boscarelli. ThereÕs nothing better.Ó OK. The bottle
came, was decanted. We tasted. Incredible restraint, nothing remotely showy. It
just drew us in. After 30 minutes it was show-time. A rising crescendo. Crashing
waves. Magnificent. Such elegance, such restraint, such class. Vino Nobile
twice the price of the others. Ten times as good. Ohmygod.
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red |
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DE FERRARI ROSSO IGT |
2006 |
15.99 |
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PRUGNOLO ROSSO DI MONTEPULCIANO |
2006 |
16.99 |
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VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO |
2005 |
23.99 |
FATTORIA VICCHIO
(MONTESPERTOLI)
The first of our arrivals after our trip to Tuscany earlier this
year. The Piazzini family have two estates, one within the Chianti Classico
zone, the other is high up in the hills in the Chianti Montespertoli just south
of Florence. The original building dates back to 1700. They run a very arty
pizza restaurant on the first floor of their winery. We were delighted by this
fleshy Chianti, a classic blend of mainly Sangiovese, with a splash of
Canaiolo.
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white |
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VICCHIO BIANCO |
2006 |
7.99 |
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red |
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POGGIO SAN PIETRO |
2006 |
7.99 |
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CHIANTI TORRATO |
2006 |
8.99 |
PRATESI
(CARMIGNANO)
Carmignano is an appellation from just south-west of Florence.
Like a Chianti, but with a splash of sunshine-soaked Cabernet Sauvignon.
Although the Pratesi's have always done their wine Òon the sideÓ (father and
sons working as engineers and car dealers) they are serious about the quality.
Supple, high-class, high-toned Tuscan red. So good that their Carmignano sold
out in less than a month.
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red |
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LOCOROSSO |
2005 |
9.99 |
IL COLLE
(MONTALCINO)
ÒBrunello for
the people!Ó For some reason this phrase stuck in our minds. Caterina di Carli
was talking about her Rosso di Montalcino and how she cares just as much about
her Rosso as her Brunello. Caterina has been making the wine since she
inherited the small estate from her father who was a full-time lawyer with a
Brunello making hobby. He pretty much despatched his entire output himself, which
might have accelerated his rather premature demise. The style is
unreconstructed traditional. She uses wild yeasts – something we have
rarely seen outside of Bio-Dynamic white wine making. This can give some
challenging aromas – exciting, raw and dangerous. In the mouth they are
elegant and pure. No trace of oak. Just ripe, bright, almost breezy fruit. ÒLong
live the People! Let them drink good Brunello!Ó
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red |
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ROSSO DI MONTALCINO |
2005 |
15.99 |
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BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO |
2002 |
27.99 |
CANALICCHIO
DI SOPRA (MONTALCINO)
Nonno Pacenti
was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio in 1966, to raise the
flag of Brunello above the parapets. Things have moved on since then. The
reputation of Brunello jostles with Barolo for primacy as ItalyÕs finest red. NonnoÕs
grandsons are now running the show. Francesco is studying Economics and
Commerce. HeÕs the one who takes care of business. Marco, his brother, handles
production. The wines are enigmatic. Rich and ripe and yet with a dark, adult
undertow.
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red |
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ROSSO DI MONTALCINO |
2005 |
17.99 |
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ROSSO DI MONTALCINO |
2006 |
17.99 |
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BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO |
2003 |
38.99 |