TUSCANY

 

BOSCARELLI (Montepulciano)

Montepulciano is best known for its Vino Nobile and it's fair to say that, despite tasting relentlessly, the charm of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had passed us by. Until one chilly night in January when we were sitting in “La Brocca d'Oro” the only Trattoria open in Chianciano Terme, Montepulciano's neighbour. We told our young host Leonardo that we had an appointment with Boscarelli the following morning and asked what should we drink tonight. He said “drink the Boscarelli. There's nothing better.” Over the following 90 minutes we had what could be best described as an awakening. Back in London, a few months later, their exquisite Vino Nobile did not stay on our shelves for long.

 

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	De Ferrari Rosso IGT	2006	15.99
	Prugnolo Rosso di Montalcino	2006	16.99

 

 

IL COLLE (Montalcino)

“Brunello for the people!” Caterina di Carli was talking about her Rosso di Montalcino and how she cares just as much about her Rosso as her Brunello. Caterina has been making the wine since she inherited the small estate from her father who was a full-time lawyer with a Brunello-making hobby. He pretty much despatched his entire output himself, which might have accelerated his rather premature demise. The style is unreconstructed traditional. She uses wild yeasts - something we have rarely seen outside of Biodynamic white wine making. This can give some challenging aromas - exciting, raw and dangerous. In the mouth they are elegant and pure. No trace of oak. Just ripe, bright, almost breezy fruit.

 

 

CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA (Montalcino)

Canalicchio's Nonno Pacenti was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, to raise the flag of Brunello above the parapets. Things have moved on since then. The reputation of Brunello now jostles with Barolo for primacy as Italy's finest red and Nonno's grandsons are running the Canalicchio show. Francesco is studying Economics and Commerce. He's the one who takes care of business. Marco, his brother, handles production. Their wines are enigmatic. Rich, ripe and yet with a dark twist

 

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	Rosso di Montalcino	2006	17.99
	Brunello di Montalcino	2003	38.99

 

 

PODERE CIONA (Gaiole)

Having travelled the world for Exxon, Franco and Franca Gatteschi thought they'd had enough of jet-setting and red tape and that they'd retire to Gaiole deep in the the hills of Chianti-shire.  They bought Podere Ciona from the monastry. Oddly, there were very few vines as the monks just kept sheep and pigs. To stop them getting bored, they opened an Agriturismo and planted some vines. Some retirement! There's no getting away from the paperwork and we thoroughly enjoyed Franco's enthusiastic rant about Italian bureaucracy. We can almost picture him as one of those guys who move into the hills and forests of Montana. There the similarity ends. Instead of trapping boar and law-enforcers they run cookery classes and make modern, silky wines; stylish Chianti Riserva, a fabulous Merlot IGT called Le Diacce and Montegrossoli, their charming Sangiovese.

 

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	Montegrossoli	2004	11.99
	Chianti Classico Riserva	2004	19.99

 

 

LA MARCELLINA (Panzano)

The history of Tuscany drips with jealousy and blood. Nowhere more than in the heart of Chianti-shire. La Marcellina is named after Marcello, the first owner of Fabio Castellacci's house back in feudal times who was gifted a lookout tower at the bottom of the hill by the Sire of Panzano Castle for a "special favour" done on his behalf. We take this to mean “disposing of someone undesirable”. Wind forward 300 years and the farm belongs to Fabio's Grandfather, the baker and grocer of Panzano, who started making wine as a hobby. Wind forward another 50 years and Fabio is making charming, pure Chianti Classico with a deft, assured touch.

The track down to their house is so rutted and the hill so steep that no lorry can get down it, so Fabio had to bring his wines up to the top in his 4-wheel drive to meet our transporter.

 

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	Ser Marcello Rosso di Toscana	2006	12.99
	Camporosso UGT	2004	19.99
	Sassocupo Chianti Classico Riserva	2004	22.99

 

 

PRATESI (Carmignano)

Carmignano is an appellation from just south-west of Florence. Like a Chianti, but with a splash of sunshine-soaked Cabernet Sauvignon. Although the Pratesi's have always done their wine “on the side” (father and sons working as engineers and car dealers) they are serious about the quality. Supple, high-class, high-toned Tuscan reds.

 

 

DREOLINO (Rufina)

We stumbled across a delicious Chianti Rufina by Dreolino in the unassuming and excellent Trattoria Tre Soldi in Florence. The following morning we were knocking on their door. While their labels are unlikely to win Graphics Awards  (could the straight Chianti label be the most garish label in the shop?), their wines are honest and breezy. Bright, charming Chianti.

 

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	Chianti	2006	8.99
	Chianti Rufina	2006	10.99
	Petroio	2006	13.99
	Lieto Evento IGT	2007	16.99
	Chianti Rufina Riserva	2003	17.99

 

 

FATTORIA VICCHIO (Montespertoli)

The Piazzini family have two estates, one within the Chianti Classico zone, the other high up in the hills in the Chianti Montespertoli just south of Florence. The original building dates back to 1700. They run a very arty pizza restaurant on the first floor of their winery. We were delighted by these fleshy Chiantis, classic blends of mainly Sangiovese, with a splash of Canaiolo.

  

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	Poggio San Pietro	2006	7.99
	Chianti Torrato	2006	8.99