“More Riesling please, Sabine!” It was July 2016 at (the sadly now defunct) Straubs Schone Aussicht in Klingenberg-am-Main, a hotel/restaurant with an outstanding wine list.
“Something local?” Yes, please. Furst-Lowenstein Kallmuth Riesling 2013 appeared. Yum. Made by the young and very talented Bastian Hamdorf. He’s no longer at Furst-Lowenstein and he has his own micro-winery with micro parcels totalling 1.5 hectares, just over the other side of the river in Klingenberg.
We arrived outside his house the following morning, the vineyard at the end of the street towering over the houses. Bastian’s winery is in the basement below his home. His garage is the “grape reception centre” and home for childrens toys.
Bastian Hamdorf. Micro-winery. Micro-production. Hardcore – every bottle is filled by hand.
What’s in the back garden, Bastian? Another of Bastian’s parcels of vines. A tiny Clos – an enclosed vineyard in his back garden. And who’s that working in the vines?
“That’s my wife’s mother Ingrid. Boss for canopy management.”
Bastian makes Riesling, Sylvaner, Spatburgunder and Portugieser.
Portugieser is a grape we rarely get excited about but Bastian’s, from 94 year-old vines, is quite simply the finest, densest, most fragrant Portugieser we have ever tasted!