Battenfeld-Spanier (Hohen-Sulzen) ORGANIC

We hammered down the Autobahn into the Wonnegau, the deepest darkest south-eastern corner of Rheinhessen. Until recently this was the least-favoured spot in Germany’s least-favoured wine region. Now it is alive with hot-blooded, hot-headed young men. We already know Stefan Winter, Jochen Dreissigacker and Klaus-Peter Keller. Now here’s Hans-Oliver Spanier, the young owner of Battenfeld-Spanier who makes succulent modern dry Rieslings, stylish Sekt and Gruner Silvaner, the local speciality. Why is there a pram on his chimney? “Some mates of mine put it up there when I got married and I haven’t figured out how to get it down yet!