Canalicchio’s Nonno Pacenti was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, to raise the flag of Brunello above the parapets. Things have moved on since then. The reputation of Brunello now jostles with Barolo for primacy as Italy’s finest red and Nonno’s grandsons are running the Canalicchio show. Francesco is studying Economics and Commerce. He’s the one who takes care of business. Marco, his brother, handles production. Their wines are enigmatic. Rich, ripe and yet with a dark twist.