Cascina delle Rose (Barbaresco/Tre Stelle)

Chain-smoking powerhouse Giovanna Rizzolio had had enough of the fashion journalism world in Milan when she moved into her grandparents’ house (with her new husband and his teenage sons) in the Tre Stelle hamlet along the ridge from Barbaresco. She started a guesthouse and decided to bottle her own wine.
Most Dolcetto is light, bright, breezy and crunchy. Brace yourself, Giovanna’s is quite different, with its dark, meaty, almost sweaty nose and startling weight and body. This may all sound a bit “locker room”, but fortunately there’s a wonderful core of blackberry fruit running through it. She makes the full compliment. Surprisingly meaty Dolcetto, lush Barbera, bold Nebbiolo and excellent Barbaresco.