Francois Seconde (Sillery/Montagne de Reims)

François Seconde is retiring, supposedly – although visual confirmation is lacking, thankfully. In the meantime, we are delighted to make repeated diversions off the Autoroute des Anglais just after Reims, to the village of Sillery on the chalky Montagne de Reims, to scoop up more of his wonderful, mouthfilling Grand Cru Champagnes.
Brut Grand Cru NV is 2/3 Pinot Noirs and 1/3 Chardonnay. Cuvee Clavier (the one with the, er, distinctive piano keyboard label) is more white than “black” grapes (geddit? More white keys than black), 2/3 Chardonnay and 1/3 Pinot Noir. The exquisite “La Loge” is a Blanc de Noirs, 100% Pinot Noir. Francois’ latest, top bottling is the intense “Puisieulx”, 50/50 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay from the tiny village of Puisieulx.