When we emerged from our tasting at Clusserath-Weiler ten or eleven years ago, there was a message on the voicemail. “Stuart here. (That’s our Berlin-based wine writer friend Stuart Pigott). I’m round at Theo Haart’s. The wines are…. frankly stunning (paraphrasing for the faint-of-heart). He’s not working in the UK at the moment. You’d better get your asses over here.” So we jumped into the van and charged over to Piesport to catch them before they left the restaurant. Theo is world-renowned for his classic sweeter Piesporters and, yes, the 2005s were sumptuous. Wild yeasts, classic blackcurrant leaf aromas, ripe peachy yellow fruit mouthfeel, with smoky, slatey minerality and exhilarating acidity – high-class fruity Mosel which can age effortlessly for 30 years or more. We have been frequent visitors since then.
Piesport is one of the most famous villages in the Mosel valley. The Haart winery is, without doubt, the top estate in Piesport and can trace its history back to 1337. The family has beautifully kept old parcels in prime vineyards in Piesport and Wintrich, all on steep slate slopes teetering precariously over the river.
Johannes Haart’s father Theo is a master (and lover) of the sweeter styles of Mosel Riesling. While Theo has been in the decade-long process of retiring, Johannes has overseen a steady increase in their dry styles. Recently his younger, hipster brother Marcus has joined the team.
From dry Piesporter and Wintricher, to the Goldtropfchen and Ohligsberger GGs and then over to the sweeter Kabinetts, Spatlese and Auslese – the entire range is impeccable.
