The quiet village of Volnay has around ninety-five growers and Michel Lafarge plays a central part in its history. He was mayor of the village, as were his father and grandfather. Famous for his reds, the 2006’s are the epitome of Volnay finesse and rich elegance. Lafarge also makes a very elegant, quietly classy style of Meursault from the Volnay end of the appellation. Other highlights in his freezing cellar were the finest Beaune Greves we’ve tasted – a rare treat, considering he makes just one barrel. There seems to have been a seemless succession from Michel to his son Freddy but nobody really knows who does what. Biodynamism remains a touchstone for us. The compelling organic system based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner and the lunar calendar is winning over growers everywhere. Burgundy seemed resistant until some high profile growers such as the former Mayor of Volnay, Michel Lafarge, switched. It came as a surprise to us that 80 year-old Michel and his son Freddy had converted as long ago as 2000. Everything is so understated and discreet. Who knows who does what in their cellar, the quality is seamless and peerless. This is their Volnay Selectionees – their favourite barrels, better parcels, generally older vines, up a notch from their basic Volnay. Silky like crushed velvet. Sensual, elegant and feminine.
