In southern Burgundy, near Macon, the primal presence of the two jagged rock faces of Vergisson and Solutre dominate the skyline above the tiny village of Pouilly, the village that time forgot. When we first visited, the whole Cheveau family, from grandparents to grandchildren, gathered in the doorway to watch the hot-shot wine merchants from London taste their wines. At that time, Nicolas Cheveau made Mâcon, St-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. Joined by his wife Aurélie, much has changed since then. There’s a swanky new-ish, much more accessible winery on the approach to the village. There are also multiple new bottlings; three Mâcon, one Bourgogne Blanc, one St-Véran, no fewer than eight separate Pouilly-Fuissé bottlings (five of them 1er Cru) three red and one white Beaujolais.
