Some of the most startling wines we have ever tasted come from Peter-Jakob Kuhn from Oestrich in the heart of the Rheingau – a magnificent south-facing slope overlooking the Rhine near Wiesbaden, west of Frankfurt. Peter-Jakob was certified organic in 2004 and then went the whole way to biodynamic, the extreme end of organic viticulture, where decisions are made according to the Lunar Calendar. Biodynamic viticulture is based on the teachings of Maria Thun, the gnarly 80-something guru in middle Germany, who in turn is a disciple of Rudolf Steiner, the Austrian philosopher who laid out his mission statement for an alternative agriculture in the 1920s. An increasing number of winemakers have switched to biodynamism. The whole family is involved and in-tune. His wife Angela, daughter Sandra and son Peter. It’s an impressive winery, totally committed and fearless. They have been experimenting with oak, ridiculously long lees contact (Schlehdorn) and have even made wine in two amphoras they bought in Spain. Watch out for the mad, haunting aromas of the wild yeasts. Exotic, oily, peppery, savoury – almost salty.
