Modern Muscadet has come a long way since the 1980’s, no longer mean and green but still a perfect choice for seafood and simple fish dishes. Stephane Orieux’s organic wines are ample and broad. The vines are grown on Schiste and Granite soils and the wine is aged on its lees with regular stirring, giving it a layered and broad feel in the mouth. Normal practice elsewhere, forbidden for Muscadet, it’s almost as if he has allowed some malolactic fermentation to take place. That can’t be – c’est interdit! Well, whatever he’s doing, we like it; complex, flavourful Muscadet.