Verrier (Etoges/Coteaux du Petit Morin)

09.15h one Monday morning in April at Champagne Verrier in Étoges on the little known Coteaux du Petit Morin, which runs southwest of the Cote des Blancs. We were brought here by a bottle of Emmanuel Verrier’s Champagne Tradition Brut that we drank at Chateau d’Étoges one frigid February night. Aromas of citrus zest & lilac (?!) in this blend of mainly Pinot Meunier with Chardonnay & Pinot Noir. Emmanuel and Laurence’s entire range is fabulous; Tradition Brut (75% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir), Brut Nature (Zero dosage, equal thirds Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier & Chardonnay). The Rosé is primarily from white base wine, 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, to which is added a still red wine from macerated Pinot Meunier. Then there is the bone dry Ismérie (a Blanc de Blancs, 100% Chardonnay), the fuller Fleuron Brut (90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir) and finally Cuvée Raymond Verrier (90% Chardonnay with 10% Pinot Noir, always from a single vintage).