Friuli
Friuli, the top right hand corner of Italy, may be best known as Italy’s top white wine region, but the locals are also very proud of their Merlot.
Franco Toros (Cormons/Collio)
Franco Toros makes the most intense examples of Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano and Pinot Bianco we have come across in Friuli. What makes them so top-class, top-shelf, top-quality? Location, location, location. He and his vines are in the sweetest sweet-spot in Friuli, not the “Collio Orientali”, the “Collio”. La-di-dah!
His Pinot Bianco, treated to a spell in some new oak, is very vinous, serious, almost Burgundian in its finesse. A refreshing change from all that Meursault we drink… the Pinot Grigio is broad-shouldered and packed with flavour, illustrating the potential of this widely seen grape. The Friulano is magnificently complex, packed with nuts, delicate flowers, a hint of mandarin oil.
Alessandro Vicentini Orgnani (Valeriano/Grave)
A massive earthquake in 1976 hit the small village of Valeriano in the foothills of the Alps, reducing the Orgnani home to rubble. The family moved their home into the winery and the winery into the barn. Alessandro Vicentini Orgnani studied architecture in Venice before returning home to take over the winery from his father, overhauling and modernising everything and bottling the entire output himself.
Pinot Grigio is one of the few white grapes to have a pink flesh, the natural colour is usually filtered away – Alessandro’s often has its natural pinkish tinge. Always easy-going with notes of peach stone and honeysuckle.
Many of us remember how worked-up our Hungarian colleague Kristian used to get that the Italians called their delicious white wine from Friuli in the north-eastern corner of the country “Tocai Friulano”. How dare they use the word Tocai? They are trying to piggy-back on the reputation of Hungary’s famous dessert wine, Tokaji. (Never mind that Tocai Friulano is dry.) Under enormous pressure from the Hungarians, the European Wine Police have now forced the Italians to drop the word Tocai. Whatever it says on the label, it has a beautiful honeysuckle nose and a creamy, rich texture. When we visited Alessandro, we drank his Friulano in nearby San Daniele with its famous ham – perfect!
We have also recently been impressed by his Merlot.
Lombardy
Cantina di Casteggio (Oltrepo Pavese)
The little known region of Oltrepó Pavese is a bump on the plain 50kms south of Milan. There is one major player in town. It’s fair to say Cantina di Casteggio is bigger than any other winery we work with. Much bigger. A Co-op with 350 members and a massive facility, part run-down fascista-style, part space age. Try as we might, we just couldn’t resist the wines. Impressive across the whole range. The Cantina is very switched-on and started a “quality project” with their best 50 growers, bringing in famous Italian consultant Riccardo Cotarella.
100% Pinot Noir, Postumio is a true Methode Champenoise, fermented and aged for 18 months in bottle. Pinot Grigio, beautifully balanced. Sauvignon in the creamy, rather than zizzy, style. Malvasia, exotic in the nose, good depth in the mouth. Fabulous Barbera – smooth and deep. A smoky Pinot Noir and now, their newest wine, a spicy, grapey, gently sweet, gently sparkling Moscato.
Piedmont
Barolo is always a treat and many say it is Italy’s greatest wine. Who are we to disagree? It comes from the rippled Piedmontese landscape just south of Alba. An hour’s drive south of Turin. As you look from the highest point, the hilltop town of La Morra across the valley you can pick out the townships on their respective hills, evoking mediaeval times.
Despite the value of Barolo, until quite recently Piemonte was really quite poor. Relying heavily on the land and very much at the mercy of the harsh mountain winters, life was pretty hard. A recurring (and slightly irreverent) theme around the valley was that the men were always groomed to run the small family farms, usually leaving school prematurely. What to do with the girls? – Oh, send them to school and college, maybe they can get a job in the towns and cities…As a result, many of the women speak more languages than the usual Piemontese dialect and Italian. It was Daniela Veglio who smilingly told us “that’s why our men are so stupid!” – one way of looking at it maybe, but they can certainly make great wine!
Although it seems to us as if Barolo has always been a classic fine wine, in the 1800s and first half of the 1900s Barbera was considered the king of wine in Piedmont and Barbera vines were planted in all the best positions. Nebbiolo, the grape which finds its purest expression in Barolo and Barbaresco, was just too difficult, too tough. It needed such a long time in bottle (routinely 20-30 years) to tame its aggressive tannins and awkward acidity. Time was, only a century ago, when Barbera Nebbiolo took over as Barolo and Barbaresco became more valued and Barbera became unfashionable. In the past fifteen years many growers have started taking Barbera more seriously. It makes an excellent counterpoint, with its big flavour and low tannin, to the more tannic Nebbiolo.
Barolo’s stature was increasing in the mid 1960’s and there was a revolution in the mid 70’s led by Elio Altare and friends who modernised their winemaking, seeking to control the tannin levels and boost aromas. There is still a rift between traditionalists and modernistas (usually referred to as “barrique” wines in the area), the traditionalists saying the modern wines are just too oaky and won’t age and the modernistas saying the traditional wines are undrinkable young and why wait 30 years to find if the wine is any good?
What we found on our trip was a rich and satisfying third way opening up – where some growers have eased back on the new oak, aiming for a wine with the weight, body and power of some of the better traditionalists, but with the perfume, nuance and sheer approachability of the modernists.
Like Burgundy, there is a clear definition of styles from township to township; Monforte – powerful, tough. La Morra – elegant, perfumed. Serralunga – sleek minerality and poise. Barolo – power and perfume. Also a “cru” system has taken increasing hold over the past few years with “cru” vineyards such as “Cannubi”, “Arborina” and “Rocche” specified on the label. These are considered a higher level than straight village Barolo – and equivalent to 1er cru status. Mauro Sebaste says the “cru” is now more important than the old fashioned Riserva system.
Many are experimenting with super-cuvées of Barbera and Langhe Rosso blends in various combinations of Barbera, Nebbiolo, Freisa, Brachetto and international varieties like Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir. Still, the unique noble grape of the region is Nebbiolo, now planted in all the prime positions and with a string of very good to excellent vintages (with 2 exceptions) over the last 15 years Barolo is highly valued as one of the great red wines of the world. We love it!
Gianfranco Alessandria (Monforte d’Alba)
Barolo from Monforte d’Alba is considered the bruiser, the most macho and powerful. Gianfranco Alessandria is one of the brightest stars of the township. With our virtually non-existent Italian (until the arrival of Giorgio), communication has usually relied on warm goodwill here. This time it flowed beautifully – their daughter Vittoria, now 16, has been learning English.
Gianfranco continues to use the traditional fermentation methods, punching down the cap in open-top fermentation vats. Having said this, the wines are far from traditional. Tiny quantities, low yield. He manages to combine raw power with silky finesse.
Alessandria’s Barolos, usually punishing young, have become increasingly approachable since the ripe, almost jammy 2003 vintage. Every grower was raving about the 2004s. “Like the 2001s – only better.”
He continues to use the traditional fermentation methods, punching down the cap in open-top vats. Having said that, the wines are far from traditional. Tiny quantities, low yield.
Cascina delle Rose (Barbaresco/Tre Stelle)
Chain-smoking powerhouse Giovanna Rizzolio had had enough of the fashion journalism world in Milan when she moved into her grandparents’ house (with her new husband and his teenage sons) in the Tre Stelle hamlet along the ridge from Barbaresco. She started a guesthouse and decided to bottle her own wine.
Most Dolcetto is light, bright, breezy and crunchy. Brace yourself, Giovanna’s is quite different, with its dark, meaty, almost sweaty nose and startling weight and body. This may all sound a bit “locker room”, but fortunately there’s a wonderful core of blackberry fruit running through it. She makes the full compliment. Surprisingly meaty Dolcetto, lush Barbera, bold Nebbiolo and excellent Barbaresco.
Fontanassa (Rovereto)
Gavi, made from a grape called Cortese, is considered one of the finest white wines of Italy and evokes wet straw, white flowers, honeysuckle and bitter almonds.
The town of Gavi, north of Genoa, has an imposing citadel, some fantastic almond biscuits and, surprisingly, no vines. The best Gavi is called Gavi di Gavi and comes from a small village called Rovereto on the gently undulating plateau above Gavi and its gorge. Marco Gemme, who runs Fontanassa with his brother Roberto, is possibly one of the most bearded men we have ever met. A visit there is a truly rural experience with children, chickens and dogs running underfoot, and a beaten-up car under a tree. Roll back the big door of the barn and you get a surprise – the shiniest modern winery.
Palladino (Serralunga)
We were looking for an uncompromising, old-style Barolo and were convinced we’d find it in the mediaeval township of Serralunga d’Alba, famous for its particularly tough, untamed, tannic Nebbiolo. After several teeth-staining tastings we stumbled across Palladino.
Tar and roses, truffles and more tar…Mission achieved!
Edoardo Sobrino (Diano d’Alba)
Edoardo is a manufacturer and dealer in tiles. Longtime Barolo-lover, he bought a house next to legendary Barolo producer Roberto Voerzio. He also bought some very old vines. We have a vision of Edoardo leaning over the garden fence and asking his neighbour, “so my tanks are at 23 degrees, what do I do now?”
Mauro Veglio (La Morra/Annunziata)
There are two houses on the Cascina Nuova outcrop overlooking the “Arborina” vineyard. One belongs to the chief revolutionary (recently retired) Barolista Elio Altare, the other to his protegé Mauro Veglio. With help and guidance from Elio in the early years, Mauro and his wife Daniela started making wine in 1992 and have built up a formidable reputation with their basket of Barolo “crus”, their Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. Elegant, feminine La Morra perfume. Think tar, roses, truffles, tobacco leaf and Earl Grey tea. The Dolcetto vines have distinctive purple leaves, are early ripening and usually deliver light, charming, breezy wines. Mauro coaxes surprising complexity from his “little sweet one”. Elegant, feminine La Morra perfume with a fuller body.
Osvaldo Viberti (La Morra/Serra dei Turchi)
We were brought to Osvaldo’s door by his fabulous Barolo Serra dei Turchi 2001. His house is in a small cluster of farm buildings on a small ridge between Alba and the hilltop village of La Morra called “Serra dei Turchi”, the “Ridge of Turks”. There was a Turkish encampment on this ridge centuries ago. We love the handmade quality of his wines.
Puglia
Is Puglia the new Tuscany? Tuscany is hilly, Puglia is flat. Tuscany is known for its light to medium weight reds, Puglia for high alcohol, heavy, rich reds. Maybe the only parallel is the surge of North Europeans buying run-down cottages and houses…
Land is cheap here and the wineries are large and feel a bit industrial. In some cases several co-ops have grouped together to be more commercial and they have all opted to make wines that will export well, wines from Merlot and Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. These are all very well but not what we were looking for at The Winery. Just when we were beginning to feel we had come to the wrong region, we arrived in Tuglie, the bottom of the heel of Italy.
Schola Sarmenti (Tuglie)
The Men in Black are back. In fact, they are never far away.
It was a convoluted route via a restaurant in an unmarked doorway, down a side alley, hidden away from everyone but the locals. Then a tip from Alfonso, the owner, to go to the tiny Enobar to see his friend Adriano, who then tipped us off about a new winery called Schola Sarmenti right down in Puglia’s southernmost corner. We made the call to Lorenzo and then it all went a bit “Godfather”. “We’ll meet at 17.00h in the square.” “How will we recognise you?” “Don’t worry, we’ll find you”. Men in black, following a black car along remote country roads, horses heads in beds, we experienced them all – apart from the horses heads. The wines are impressive. Traditional Puglian varieties evoking the southern sun-baked land. Rich, earthy and savoury. Precise and powerful. The focus here is on blending different local grape varieties together including NegroAmaro, Malvasia Nera Leccese and Primitivo, Zinfandel’s Italian cousin.
Tuscany
Antico Colle (Montepulciano)
We first started our conversation with Antico Colle in Montepulciano five years ago. Strictly speaking, they started the conversation with us. Their determination paid off. A very cheeky, chunky Chianti Colli Senesi from south of Sienna was the catalyst. 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And what’s not to like with their Vino Nobile?
Boscarelli (Montepulciano)
Montepulciano is best known for its Vino Nobile and it’s fair to say that, despite tasting relentlessly, the charm of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had passed us by. Until one chilly night in January when we were sitting in “La Brocca d’Oro” the only Trattoria open in Chianciano Terme, Montepulciano’s neighbour. We told our young host Leonardo that we had an appointment with Boscarelli the following morning and asked what should we drink tonight. He said “drink the Boscarelli. There’s nothing better.” Over the following 90 minutes we had what could be best described as an awakening. Back in London, a few months later, their exquisite Vino Nobile did not stay on our shelves for long.
Il Colle di Carli (Montalcino)
“Brunello for the people!” Caterina di Carli was talking about her Rosso di Montalcino and how she cares just as much about her Rosso as her Brunello. Caterina has been making the wine since she inherited the small estate from her father who was a full-time lawyer with a Brunello-making hobby. He pretty much despatched his entire output himself, which might have accelerated his rather premature demise. The style is unreconstructed traditional. She uses wild yeasts – something we have rarely seen outside of Biodynamic white wine making. This can give some challenging aromas – exciting, raw and dangerous. In the mouth they are elegant and pure. No trace of oak. Just ripe, bright, almost breezy fruit.
Canalicchio di Sopra (Montalcino)
Canalicchio’s Nonno Pacenti was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, to raise the flag of Brunello above the parapets. Things have moved on since then. The reputation of Brunello now jostles with Barolo for primacy as Italy’s finest red and Nonno’s grandsons are running the Canalicchio show. Francesco is studying Economics and Commerce. He’s the one who takes care of business. Marco, his brother, handles production. Their wines are enigmatic. Rich, ripe and yet with a dark twist.
Podere Ciona (Gaiole)
Having travelled the world for Exxon, Franco and Franca Gatteschi thought they’d had enough of jet-setting and red tape and that they’d retire to Gaiole deep in the the hills of Chianti-shire. They bought Podere Ciona from the monastry. Oddly, there were very few vines as the monks just kept sheep and pigs. To stop them getting bored, they opened an Agriturismo and planted some vines. Some retirement! There’s no getting away from the paperwork and we thoroughly enjoyed Franco’s enthusiastic rant about Italian bureaucracy. We can almost picture him as one of those guys who move into the hills and forests of Montana. There the similarity ends. Instead of trapping boar and law-enforcers they run cookery classes and make modern, silky wines; stylish Chianti Riserva, a fabulous Merlot IGT called Le Diacce and Montegrossoli, their charming Sangiovese.
La Marcellina (Panzano)
The history of Tuscany drips with jealousy and blood. Nowhere more than in the heart of Chianti-shire. La Marcellina is named after Marcello, the first owner of Fabio Castellacci’s house back in feudal times who was gifted a lookout tower at the bottom of the hill by the Sire of Panzano Castle for a “special favour” done on his behalf. We take this to mean “disposing of someone undesirable”. Wind forward 300 years and the farm belongs to Fabio’s Grandfather, the baker and grocer of Panzano, who started making wine as a hobby. Wind forward another 50 years and Fabio is making charming, pure Chianti Classico with a deft, assured touch.
The track down to their house is so rutted and the hill so steep that no lorry can get down it, so Fabio had to bring his wines up to the top in his 4-wheel drive to meet our transporter.
Pratesi (Carmignano)
Carmignano is an appellation from just south-west of Florence. Like a Chianti, but with a splash of sunshine-soaked Cabernet Sauvignon. Although the Pratesi’s have always done their wine “on the side” (father and sons working as engineers and car dealers) they are serious about the quality. Supple, high-class, high-toned Tuscan reds.
Dreolino (Rufina)
We stumbled across a delicious Chianti Rufina by Dreolino in the unassuming and excellent Trattoria Tre Soldi in Florence. The following morning we were knocking on their door. While their labels are unlikely to win Graphics Awards (could the straight Chianti label be the most garish label in the shop?), their wines are honest and breezy. Bright, charming Chianti.
Sicily
Buffa (Marsala)
Marsala – the link between dry Sherry and Madeira? Marsala – not just for cooking with.
We were keen to find out more about Marsala, another of those legendary fortified wines like Sherry, Port and Madeira. We already knew it wasn’t just for cooking with, but beyond that there was much to learn. Question was, where? So we texted a friend of ours who comes from Marsala and asked around when we arrived. The lady in the Hotel said her husband is crazy about it and has a big collection of older Marsala. Everyone recommended the same Enoteca in via Garibaldi so we hot-footed along and the moment we walked into the tiny bar asked if we could have a Marsala Masterclass to bring us up to speed. The charming hostess Alessandra turned off the sport channel and powered up a powerpoint presentation. We were off. She took us through the history. In 1773 John Woodhouse, a British merchant, was sheltering from a storm with his ship and liked the local wine made with the Grillo grape so much he bought several casks. To stabilise it for the voyage to Liverpool, he added some spirit. And so Marsala, as we know it, was born.
She took us through the pyramid of quality from Fino through Superiore and Superiore Riserva up to Vergine. The varying sweetness/dryness levels and the way they cross over. We immersed ourselves in our study, accelerated with the appearance of Alessandra’s very knowledgeable boss/boyfriend Salvo, who resembled a harder version of Serge Gainsbourg. It became very clear to us that the tiny Cantine Buffa were the best in a line-up that included some big names. And that’s why they are now on our shelves. Buffa the Marsala Slayer!
Guccione (Monreale) BIODYNAMIC
It didn’t look more than 5 kms from Giorgio’s village as the crow flies, but, once you leave the proper roads behind and are dealing with dirt tracks, disused railway lines, flocks of sheep and goats, it still took an hour. Meanwhile, it was beautiful, remote and a great valley to make the finest old-vine biodynamic Trebbiano (!) we have ever tasted. Trebbiano, the most planted white in Italy and usually the most neutral, the most forgettable. Francesco Guccione’s is altogether different. 25 year-old vines, biodynamic, an intense nose evocative of tangerine peel, oily and nutty. More reminiscent of new wave biodynamic Riesling (like PJ Kuhn) for instance, than Trebbiano. Unforgettable.
Francesco and his brother Manfreddi’s converted to biodynamism in 2005 and now make arty bottlings of Cataratto (in their hands, an intensely herbal, spicy white), and silky reds made with the seldom seen Perricone (chestnuts, rose, boisenberry, lavender and licorice) and Nerello Mascalese (wild flowers and sour cherries) better known from Faro and Etna.
Mimmo Paone (Condro/Messina)
Mimmo Paone is a Sicilian with the firmest, bone-crunching handshake we have ever experienced. Once our hands had recovered, we were very impressed with his two dark, brambly Nero d’Avolas. Although they are based on the north coast of Sicily, in the top right hand corner of the island, Mimmo’s Nero d’Avola is picked in Agrigento and driven overnight to their winery in Condro’ near Torregrotta.
Another highpoint is his Malvasia di Lipari, a deliciously unctuous, honied, aromatic dessert wine from a small volcanic island off the northeastern coast visible from Mimmo’s home in Torregrotta.
Giovanni Scarfone – Bonavita (Faro)
We work with small growers and we love it when we come across someone really small. We beat a path to Giovanni Scarfone’s tiny garage door thanks to a tip from Cascina delle Rose Giovanna Rizzolio’s husband Italo.
Faro is in a very striking position right in the top right hand corner of Sicily, high up and with a view of the Straits of Messina across to the rest of Italy. Although not widely known, Faro is one of Sicily’s finest wines. Made from Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera, it has a high tone, less big and heavy than many of Sicily’s reds, more refined.
The 0.8 hectare of vines originally belonged to Giovanni’s Great Grandfather. His Grandfather and Father (who worked in a bank for his entire career, which he hated) always made wine just for the family. His father is now retired and loves helping in the vineyard. Giovanni had gone to Bologna to study, came back in 2004 and decided to try making wine. His first vintage was 2006. He makes just one wine in his garage (room for one person at a time) and, with less than a hectare of vines, makes just 4,000 bottles a year.
Val Cerasa – Bonaccorsi (Piedimonte/Etna)
Living on a live volcano may seem nuts, but the growers on Mount Etna see it differently. The presence of “The Etna” is not some angry god of fire and destruction, dark, brooding and malignant but more of a mother nature, warm and fertile, gently spewing lava which will recharge and renew the soil with rich mineral nutrients. If you ask the locals what the loud daily siren is for they will say “time to go to the fields to work”. We suspect it’s a test for, and a reminder of, possible eruptions.
In any case it’s a remarkable place. The Etna is visible from far away, although whenever we visit the peak is covered in cloud or mist.
Unusually for the northern hemisphere, the northern, north-facing slope is considered finer than the eastern or southern slopes (there are no vines on the west side). In the sweetest sweet spot you find Val Cerasa. Husband and wife team, Alice (who trained as an agronomist) and Rosario Bonaccorsi made their first bottlings at Benanti in 1997 and bought this startling, terraced vineyard in 2000.
Now organic, they use wild yeasts for all but their white IGT, Rocca delle Compane. No new oak helps the elegance and purity of the fruit and its volcanic terroir shine through. The Etna Bianco is Caricante, the Etna Rosso is Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. These are fascinating wines. The whites are oily, with hints of grapefruit zest, surprisingly good acidity and a savoury, almost salty quality. The Etna Rosso is bold, structured, again with a savoury salty tang, but not overblown – as many wines from the Etna have struck us.
Veneto
Bosco del Merlo (Annone Veneto) ORGANIC
The Paladin family have been making organic wines under their Bosco del Merlo label for many years. Their organic Prosecco is a perennial favourite here at The Winery. Carlo and Milly Paladin have a spread of vines over the flat plains at Annone Veneto north-east of Venice, the Alps visible in the background. It’s an area rich with Roman history – the old Roman road, the via Postumia runs right by the estate.
Roberto Mazzi (Negrar)
“Have you got any Amarone?” When the weather turns snowy and wintry many think about Amarone, the rich, deep and very alcoholic red from near Verona in northeast Italy. Yes, we have Amarone. When we first visited bear-like Roberto Mazzi and his sons a decade ago, we were invited to eat in their agriturismo restaurant, an informal weekend restaurant. It was one of those 8 course meals you think you may not survive. We were in trouble long before the climax of the savoury courses, their signature Risotto with Amarone. And having finally managed to choke that delicious plate down (just), a soup appeared (soup, after main course?)…and then dessert. It was a gourmet emergency.
They make two Amarones; Punta di Villa, the more elegant of the two (if you can describe a 16% wine as elegant- more like a boxing glove made from eider feathers?), the other, Castel doesn’t pull any punches. Then two beautifully breezy, survivable, truly elegant Valpolicella Classico Superiores; Sanperetto and their Cru, Poiega. Both made from 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara, high-class, elegant Valpolicella evocative of sour cherries, bitter almonds, violets and pepper. They also make a delicious red dessert wine, Recioto della Valpolicella called Le Calcarole. If you need a wine for a chocolate dessert, look no further.
