The draughty flat land near Nantes, close to the mouth of the Loire on France’s Atlantic coast is the home of Muscadet – possibly France’s crispest white wine. Michel Bedouet is one of a posse of small, artisanal growers rebuilding the reputation for quality in the region. We all love Michel’s ridiculously affordable “Le Convivial”, essentially a de-classified Muscadet. In some years it’s a blend of Folle Blanche and Melon de Bourgogne and, more recently, a crisp Chardonnay – either way, utterly lean, wonderfully clean and refreshing. White flowers in the nose, briney in the mouth, crisp, dry and punching way above its weight. He also makes a classic Muscadet sur Lie which we often buy with a couple of years’ bottle age. Who says Muscadet doesn’t age?
